USE BROKEN SCREW EXTRACTOR ON MOTORCYCLE SCREW DRIVER
Impact screw driver is the only thing to use on the gearcase and primary cover screws. Be careful not to damage the screwdriver slots or hex head in the bolt/screw. It pushes the bolt into the hole and lets it spring out, sometimes breaking the oxide layer holding it in place. Take a flat nosed punch or drift and give the stuck bolt a few solid belts with a hammer, straight on. Jar the wrench or socket handle with the palm of your hand, rather than just pulling on it steady. Impact always works better than steady pressure. Oxy acetylene torch can melt aluminum so that is a no-no for me.įor stuck brake calipers etc, someone one here suggested and swears by boiling the caliper in a pot of water. Just don't heat it more than about 210 degrees, which is when you can spit on it and the spit boils and sizzles.
A propane torch or heat gun used with movement will not warp alumnium. The aluminum expands more than the steel bolt and loosens up the stickiness. I have heard brake fluid can work too, but never really tried it other than on stuck piston rings.įor exhuast nuts/studs etc, or removing exhaust pipes, run the engine and get it real hot, then try.įor bolts stuck in aluminum castings, take a propane torch with a wide heating tip, not the narrow soldering tip, or an electric heat gun and heat the aluminum up.
Have always found WD40 overnight to be pretty good. I am sure there are many ideas between us on removing stuck or broken bolts, so to start the ball rolling: You quite often see on these old bikes many good reasons why hand tools and not hand guns should be licensed. It is something that often comes up on these old bikes, due to age and due to previous owners' shennanigans. Also looked for a tech sticky on bolt removal 101 - is there one somewhere? a bunch of folks new to old iron would benefit from a step-by-step exercise in the patience needed to unstick a bolt without boogering up stuff.
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